Irish Culture & Heritage

A rainy day in Drogheda

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann

**We were there when the sun eventually came out - where were you?**

The Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann

August 2019 and somewhere between six and seven hundred thousand people descend on a small Irish town for a wee week-long seisiún. It attracts 50% more people than Woodstock did in 1969 - and it does it every year.

Like Woodstock, it rained off and on (of course) but nothing could dampen the Celtic flame. And fear not good reader – our culture and heritage is in safe young hands.

What is it?

So, let’s start with how to pronounce it – Fla – Key – Ole - Na – Heron is pretty close, soften the k, roll it off the tongue and it’s close enough. A Fleadh or Feis is simply a recurring traditional festival and there are lots of them all over Ireland. Over 20,000 performers take part in Fleadhanna (Plural of Fleadh) each year but this one is the mammy of them all – the Irish national festival of music and dance.

Where is it?

Well, without stating the obvious, it’s in Ireland. The scale and investment are such that it is generally awarded for two consecutive years to one town or city and then it moves on. Drogheda (pop 40,000) hosted the last 2 years and can now draw breath and pass the torch. There is strong competition to host the event and Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann, the Fleadh’s governing body, announced that Mullingar in Westmeath has been selected as the venue for  the 2020 Fleadh.

Music and Dance meet on the street

If music is the beating heart of Celtic communities then dance is the expression of joy for the gift of being Irish.

The Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann is where it all comes together in spectacular style. The streets, the bars, the riverside, the galleries, schools, public buildings and specially constructed venues are all full-to-overflowing with pure talent.

It’s fiercely competitive and, for the most part, it’s free. Only the big names play ticket venues.

From the mouths of babes

Busking is everywhere, the streets are teeming with talent and the first thing that hits you is the age range– weeuns as young as 5 are playing instruments, singing and dancing, often accompanied by their parents and grandparents. We once counted at least 4 generations busking together in a shop doorway and loving it. The level of musicianship varies but it goes from good to great to feckin’ brilliant!

If the young people we saw and heard are anything to go by, the future for Irish music and dance is very bright indeed.

The Fleadh Experience

Young and old alike

Experiencing the Fleadh

Close your eyes, feel the warmth of the crowd, sense the energy, smell the street food and tune in.

To your right, there are three wee girls in “heavy shoes” (those with hard pads on toe and heel) tapping, stamping, high-kicking and heel-clicking – all in perfect unison to the sound of a button squeezebox, fiddle, guitar and bodhrán.

To your left, a man well past eighty sits in a doorway playing the spoons with the dexterity of a young boy. Behind you, there’s a young fella playing his own compositions on guitar. In the distance, you can just hear the youth orchestra of 30+ assorted traditional instruments arrayed on the church steps, giving their best.

Stop by the craft stalls for a sample of Irish Potato Vodka (we kid you not) – legal, high quality poteen that slips down a treat.

Take a dander into the pub, any pub, and there’s bound to be a seisiún. Every square inch of the town is alive with song, dance, laughter and food and drink.

Walk up the hill to the ‘gig-rig’ stage and there’s the world’s best Irish dancing school. Scoil Rince Mona Ni Rodaigh are performing at a standard that takes your breath away. ‘Best’ is not just our opinion, they are fresh from the world championships with yet another trove of individual, team and overall winner trophies.

They delight in showing the process of creating champions, starting with toddlers doing the basic steps, but not always in the same order or with the same leg! Then to the juniors, more disciplined with skills starting to emerge. As each age group takes centre stage, the quality goes up exponentially. And finally, the champions erupt onto the stage with a display of traditional and modern dance that The Lord of the Dance himself would be proud of.

Pop-up shops sell hand-made traditional instruments in case you forgot to bring yours. New friendships are forged and old ones renewed.

Then, in the evening, the big guns are rolled out – the bands and performers that are household names all over the world line up to take part. They are brilliant, we love them but you can’t help thinking that you saw a young fella or girl on a corner earlier that would give them a run for their money. Maybe they’ll be up there next year.

Fleadh 2020

First of all, if you have a drop of Irish blood in you, or even if you don’t, you must be there – it’s a Celtic pilgrimage, a sacred duty. The Fleadh must be experienced.

Mullingar (An Muileann gCearr, meaning "the incorrect mill”, because it turned counterclockwise) is the county town of County Westmeath in the Irish Midlands> It is an hour to the west of Dublin with its international airport and ferries to and from the UK and continental Europe.

Mullingar is a market town with a population of around 21,000. It has an impressive, relatively modern Cathedral, dedicated on the day WWII broke out. There are a number of neighbouring loughs (lakes),  Lough Owel , Lough Ennell  and  Lough Derravaragh, home to the Irish legend of the  Children of Lir

Travel

Ireland’s public transport is better than you might expect. Although accommodation in Mullingar will be booked solid, it lies on the main Dublin to Sligo rail-line and there will be special transport provision from Dublin and all surrounding towns.

This year, we stayed in an authentic Edwardian guest house in Dundalk and took the train to Drogheda – 30 minutes in comfort to the centre of the action. Like so many Irish hostelries, this one was clean, comfortable and quirky, complete with four poster bed and grand piano. Such a friendly place and of course it had a great Irish breakfast.

All for just over 60 euros a night.

Mark your calendar and watch this space for some travel information, ideas and tips in the coming months. Our advice – avoid the international hotel chains and visit the real Ireland. You might not get a spa but then again you won’t want one,. It’s a well-known fact that an Irish breakfast is the best cure for last night’s hangover.

Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann 2020  will take place from August 2 to August 9 in Mullingar County Westmeath. The national festival was founded in Westmeath in 1961 so many would say it’s coming home next year.

Maybe it’s time for you too to discover your baile (home).

. See you there and if you’re a musician, bring whatever you play providing it will fit on the plane.